It worked a treat. Also make sure the glasses are dry. Yeah water is drinkable that's for sure, I guess I just went down that road to remove another possible failure point in brewing as I'm new to this game. Interesting guff on the glassware too I knew that glasses need to be nice and clean and if not cleaned properly and rinsed they can retain a film almost like a varnish I've been told dishwashers are bad for this due to high dry heat at the end of their wash cycle?
Another thing I didn't know, nothing new here! Just a stab but does the etched glass reduce the surface tension allowing air to be trapped and then pushed out when the beer is poured or something similar? So, all that being said do you think I'll be wasting my time splitting my next batch using different priming sugars and bottles etc? Does that mean that others and myself may be expecting a little too much from basic concentrate cans regarding your thoughts on recipe makeup? Not sure about the dishwasher thing but I suppose if you were unsure about it you could always rinse them and wipe dry.
People also say don't wipe glasses dry but I've never had any problems doing it. That's a good question, I don't think so though. It's more that the etching or scratching provides a roughness for bubbles of CO2 to form on. The don't tend to form on smooth surfaces. It's a bit like when bubbles start rising from the middle of the drink from bits of dust or whatever floating around in it, or when you get a dirty glass and you find a heap of bubbles all stuck to the side of the glass. I think it's a waste of time splitting priming sugar, but bottles, I'm not sure.
I've only ever used glass, so I've no real experience to compare the two. Might as well give it a go and see what the results are. In other words, you can use the kit as a base and to get your bitterness and build a recipe off it. Check out some of the recipes of the month, there are some good ones in there pretty much all based off a kit.
Brew and bottle a concentrate kit splitting between PET and glass and compare Will let you know. And no dramas, hope to hear about some successful brews down the track. Purchased from Target a while ago. Using this formula.
Plus it's the whole "I made this brew" thing Enjoying the brewing so far???? Tilting the FV won't affect the yeast. It will still end up in suspension throughout the brew and do its thing. The reason for it is to settle the majority of it away from the tap so you don't get as much crap into the bottles. You'd probably waste more money buying a filter capable of doing it than any savings you'd make from getting any drinkable beer out of it.
Besides, getting one extra bottle per batch ain't gonna save much You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community.
It's easy! Anyways, thanks for the help, I'm not going to worry and I can't wait for the beer to finish in the next two weeks. The way I see it, if you top off to exactly 5 gallons then you're going to come up short.
There are many factors that are going to determine your final volume but the goal is good tasting beer, even if it means only having 30 some bottles.
JacktheKnife Well-Known Member. Winters VonKnife. FreakinA Well-Known Member. I used to fret abt how many bottles.. Now with kegging, I know there is less waste.. Sager Brewing Co. Well-Known Member. With a little math you can figure how much you lost during fermentation and on your next batch top up to compensate. So if you started out with 5 gallons exactly into the primary. Devide that by and you get 3. So that means you lost approximatly 1. Now that would probably go down some with more experience and depending on how much trub you can keep out of the fermenter.
It would be kind of hard to add an extra 1. And you can add an extra pound of grain or extract to compensate for your SG. FreakinA said:.
Rather then 5 gallons of watered down beer? Can't you just make more batches to get to 5 gallons? That number doesn't seem as important to me as the quality. TeleTwanger Well-Known Member. Joined Sep 28, Messages Reaction score 6. TravelBastard said:. There is no compromise in quality if you hit the correct SG. If that means 5. You don't just water down the beer for the purpose of increasing volume.
Your hydrometer is the key to quality. PseudoChef Well-Known Member. Design recipes for 6 gallons at the end of the boil - then 5. Wow, there's a lot of really good info in here! I'm really not too worried about the quantity, I was just curious more than anything.
I only took one sample when I bottled it yesterday but so far I'm very happy with how the taste has turned out. You slide the bottle up the Little Bottler until the bottom of the bottom hits the valve, thereby opening it. The bottle will start to fill.
Once the bottle is full slide the bottle down and the flow will stop. When bottling beer you need to fill the bottles completely, only leaving about 1.
This will aid in ensuring your beer becomes fully carbonated. Large headspace will pressurise and equalise with CO2, which means less overall carbonation in your beer. This process will increase your ABV by circa. The CO2 being released via the secondary fermentation has nowhere to go in a sealed bottle and therefore remains in the beer — thereby carbonating it.
The amount of priming sugar added to each bottle is critical and will be dependent on the size of bottle used. Too much sugar and the bottle will explode at worst or be over carbonated and foam when opened. Too little sugar and you will have a flat, lifeless beer. The easiest way to ensure the correct dosage is to use Carbonation Drops. These look like lollies and are a set measure. They are basically hardened, precise dosage of Dextrose.
Another way to ensure the correct dosage is to use a sugar scoop and Dextrose. The sugar scoop will be double sided and will have a measure for a ml bottle and a measure for a ml bottle. The use of a sugar scoop and Dextrose is a more economical method than buying Carbonation Drops however, you are trading economy for ease of use.
The final method is to bulk prime your beer by dissolving a set amount of dextrose in hot water and then stirring it into the fermenter prior to bottling. This will result in cloudy beer. Please note, do not use raw or processed white sugar as a priming sugar.
These sugars will change the flavour profile of the beer. Once the bottles are filled and the priming sugar has been added you are almost done - crown sealing time. Ensure the crowns are clean and sterile and apply the crowns with enough force with either a hand capper or a bench capper preferred to ensure they are securely crimped to the bottle.
Turn each bottle upside down to ensure they have a good seal. The correct amount of pressure required to crown a bottle takes a bit of experience to master. Too much pressure and the bottle will break, too little and it will leak or not carbonate.
We recommend practising crown sealing on some empty bottles or water filled bottles to ensure you are using the correct pressure saves wasting the precious amber if you are not doing it right!
If you have done 23 litres of beer then you would need 30 x ml bottles. Bottle caps A bottle capper sanitizing agent A big bucket receptacle for soaking bottles in Ordinary sugar Strong hands What kind of bottles should I use for bottling? You can use plastic or glass. I use glass so I can recycle and feel good about saving the planet.
If you hate the planet, you can use plastic. That said, the beauty of using plastic bottles is that if they over carbonate due to non complete fermentation or excessive priming sugar they will only split and not explode. If you've ever seen a beer bottle explode spontaneously, you'll know what a damn mess it makes with glass everywhere! You should also bear in mind that not all glass bottles are intended to be used for home brewing so may not be strong enough for both the fermentation process and the capping process so choose wisely - maybe even practice on the odd bottle to make sure it won't crack when you do the capping.
It's time to sterilise again Just like you did when you prepared the beer batch, you are going to need to sterilize the beer bottles.
This is because the second round of fermentation is going to occur and again the yeast needs an opportunity do to its fermentation thing, free of microbes. It's this secondary fermentation that puts the CO2 in your beer. So get all your bottles in the receptacle that you are going to soak them in.
I use a plastic washing basket that's big enough to hold all the bottles I need. I then get some sodium percarbonate and add it to a cup of boiling water so it dissolves quickly. I then add it to the basket and then get the garden hose and fill it up to the brim.
You will need to wrangle your bottles as they will try and float. Push them down with your hands and make sure they are all submerged so they all get the sanitizer in them. They say you only need a minimum of 10 minutes to let them soak but having been burned before with a contaminate getting into my beer, I make sure there's little chance at the bottling stage. I leave them in to soak for a few hours and in direct sunlight if bottle. As they say, sunlight is the best disinfectant.
That or run them through the dishwasher on a hot setting. That's what I do a lot of these days. If all that seems just too difficult, you just get a bucket and fill it with your sterilizing powder. You can then just dunk the bottles in, give them a quick swirl, drain the water back into the bucket.
You can get the water out of the bottle quickly by giving it a couple of flicks of the wrist in a circular motion - the water will swirl out rather than 'bubbling out.
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